Introduction
The science behind good skin care products is not only dermatology, biochemistry or cell biology. To prepare good skin care products one needs the knowledge acquired by physical chemistry, photobiology, rheology, toxicology, and even by sensorial neurology and olfaction. As a matter of fact, making a topical product that does not run as water and that is easier and more agreeable to apply than molasses is more of a challenge than many may think.
Achieving a concoction with agreeable scent even without added fragrances can be a formidable task. When the product is meant to offer protection against ultraviolet radiation, photochemistry and photobiology need to enter the game. If, on the top of that, one wants the product to be safe and to have an efficacy whatsoever, then one needs toxicology, biochemistry, cell biology and dermatology.
What is a Good Product?
A product is good as much as it satisfies the criteria of some expert. Skin care products have several characteristics and can be good from one point of view such as esthetics and very poor from another point of view such as claimed efficacy. We will consider the quality of a product from the point of view of its efficacy.
The goal of a skin care product is to improve the skin, be it for its appearance or for its health via the topical application of ingredients that interact with the skin. A moisturizer decreases dryness, reduces itch and increases suppleness and softness. It also allows the biochemical processes in the stratum corneum to be maintained, thus avoiding the penetration of foreign bodies that can provoke irritations and allergies.
An exfoliator works by a complex biochemical process that accelerates the natural process of the shedding of the outer layer of the stratum corneum. It provokes physiological and biochemical modifications that result, among other effects, in improved smoothness and luminosity to the skin.
What Active for What Result?
The Threefold Action of Skin Care Products
Every topically applied concoction, whether “neutral” or “active”, is endowed with biochemical activity. The action of the ideal skin care product is threefold and includes:
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Maintain skin homeostasis
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Protect skin against environmental aggressions
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Remove damage generated at the molecular level
We speak here of damage generated at the molecular level, since when damage is visible such as wrinkles or age spots, other actives are required to temporarily conceal the damage.
Maintaining Skin Homeostasis
The best products to maintain skin homeostasis are moisturizers and exfoliators. Hyaluronic acid is recommended to be formulated with an inhibitor of hyaluronidases such as 0.1% Apigenin or 5% Chelatin, to avoid hydrolysis and prolong the moisturizing effect. Exfoliators used in the eye zone often contain acids that can sting, yet some ingredients such as Ascorbic acid contribute positively to skin structure.
Since Ascorbic Acid is shelf-unstable, stabilized forms such as Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Ascorbyl Glucoside are recommended. Exfoliators can also be keratolytic agents like Salicylic Acid or activators of proteases such as Recoverine, which enables elegant exfoliation without stinging. Additionally, exfoliators can be used in anti acne products to unclog pores and allow oxygen to affect anaerobic bacteria.
Protecting the Skin
Protection of the skin is mainly achieved through sun-filters and anti-oxidants. The choice of sun-filters is dictated by legislation, while anti-oxidants are selected by chemists or marketing executives. There is no need for anti-oxidants originating from exotic botanicals or philosophies, as targeted selection is more effective.
Examples include Mannitol or Ergothioneine for Hydroxyl Radical, a-tocopherol for Superoxide, Bakuchiol for Peroxynitrites, and compounds such as Astaxanthine or Lycopene for singlet Oxygen. Vitamin E has been shown to promote survival of cells exposed to UV radiation and prevent typical damage responses such as spongiosis. Retinol, although popular, requires stabilization due to complex patent constraints.
Repairing Skin Damage
Repair is defined as the removal of damage, with solar UV being the most damaging environmental factor. UV radiation primarily targets DNA in epidermal cells and is linked to inflammatory responses such as erythema. After exposure, ATP synthesis is inhibited and the immune response is impaired due to depletion of NAD.
Topical Nicotinamide restores NAD levels, allowing ATP synthesis and immune response to resume while boosting DNA repair. Nicotinamide also inhibits melanosome transfer, helping even out discolorations. In cases of prolonged UV exposure, soothing agents like Gorgonian extract can alleviate inflammation more effectively than hydrocortisone.
When damage becomes visible, cosmetic repair is only temporary. Wrinkles can be reduced in appearance using tighteners derived from Almond Seed Extract or Milk proteins. When combined with protease inhibitors, the duration of the tightening effect can be extended significantly, and starch-based tighteners can be enhanced with specific enzyme inhibitors.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes a skin care product effective?
A skin care product is considered effective when it improves the skin’s condition through biochemical interaction, whether by moisturizing, exfoliating, protecting or repairing.
Why is hyaluronic acid important in skin care?
Hyaluronic acid helps maintain hydration and skin softness, and when combined with inhibitors of its degradation, its effects can be prolonged.
How do antioxidants protect the skin?
Antioxidants neutralize reactive oxygen species that damage cells, helping to prevent oxidative stress and maintain skin integrity.
What is the role of Nicotinamide?
Nicotinamide restores NAD levels, supports ATP production, boosts DNA repair, and contributes to more even skin tone.
Can skin damage be permanently repaired with cosmetics?
No, cosmetic repair is generally temporary. Permanent repair of visible damage typically requires surgical intervention.
